Shimmering sequins, dense beads, and delicate embroidery transform quotidian garments into extraordinary works of art. While many Euro-American luxury designers have developed followings based on these sophisticated techniques, few people realize most fashion surface design is executed in another part of the world: India.
Historically, Indian textiles featured opulent metallic zardozi embroidery for the Mughal Empire’s court, along with varied regional techniques using mirrors, beads, hand-cut sequins, and silk threads. While British colonial rule decimated India’s dominant position in the global textile trade, skilled artisans or karigars continued embroidery and beading practices in craft workshops. Following independence, the Indian government organized formal programs to establish business relationships between domestic workshops and international fashion brands.
Labor of Luxury: The Art of Embroidery from India to the World features Euro-American and Indian designers who have worked closely with Indian artisans to create new possibilities in luxury fashion. Some designers have maintained silence about the skilled labor that transformed their sketches into sparkling reality; others have outspokenly celebrated these productive partnerships with karigars, recognizing the ways their artistic practices grew through the collaborations. As Indian fashion designers’ presence grows internationally, Indian beading and embroidery increasingly shapes our global fashion landscape.
Curated by Annette Becker with Collection Manager Ailie Pankonien and assisted by Anna Smith, Annie Puga, Collin Farley, Gabby Goldstein, Jarryd Lara, and Isabel Saldivar.
Labor of Luxury draws from the Texas Fashion Collection, an archive of nearly 20,000 historic and designer garments and accessories housed within the University of North Texas College of Visual Arts & Design in Denton. This world-class collection was started by the Dallas-based department store Neiman Marcus, stewarded by professionals in the Dallas fashion industry, and in 1972 moved to UNT. Today, the TFC bridges popular and academic understandings of dress history through educational programming and engaging exhibitions, inspiring generations of design, research, and thought.